Sunday 12 September 2010

Extract from Kakadu, Darwin in the Wet


Ubirr and Noulangie

Experience a fascinating and unique world of art, many thousands of years old, in some of the most beautiful scenery in the Northern Territory. Bush tracks lead to a number of rock art sites where intriguing stories shed light on some of the mystery and culture behind the paintings.

Wander past sheer sandstone rock faces, in vivid shades of orange and red with splashes of black, which tower alongside the eucalypts with their stark white trunks. Compare the burnt and almost dead bush from the dry season as it comes alive with vibrant new growth and tiny unfurling leaves, and discover carpets of wild pink ginger that look like bluebells in an English wood.

The rock art tells stories of the Creation and how the landscape and cultural influences have changed the Aboriginal way of life over many thousands of years. Be amazed at the fine and intricate detail that is so beautifully drawn in yellow, orange and white shades of ochre. Stop for a while and look, imagine and speculate. Your own stories and interpretations will probably unfold.

At Ubirr, follow a 1 km circular track, ultimately to a lookout. Time your visit for sunset. It’s a steady and moderate climb to the top of the escarpment where the setting sun lights up the rocks in a golden glow and the green floodplains look vibrant and lush. Don’t forget the camera!

Yellow Waters

Water is everywhere as the South Alligator River bursts its banks and overflows across the floodplains. On a breakfast cruise through this water wonderland, the river pandanus form dense hedges of green and the lush buffalo grass encroaches on the tiny white flowers of the native Wiligia vines. Lily pads, bigger than any dinner plate, gently unfurl alongside the spears of new bright pink lotus lily and a brilliant carpet of red mangrove tree flowers suddenly appears amongst the jungle of green. A crocodile lurks in the murky shallows standing guard on his mound of eggs and a darter with wings like a silver jumbo jet perches perfectly still on a dead bit of tree.

4 comments:

Scriveners said...

Heather says:

Thank you for this, Sue. I was transported across the continent by the flow of your language and images. RICH in detail. You captured the rock paintings so eloquently. Loved the imagery in the Yellow Waters.

And the photo is wonderful.

Scriveners said...

Sue

The description is great and I can stand back and see what you have seen. Somehow though I am not 'there'. I wonder could you have my mind be transported so I am there (not really sure how you do this!). I think it is the feeling and the sounds (or the five senses) that I need connected to the places. It is not what 'would I hear if I were there' but something like: "Standing in the midst of the sandstone and rock faces the sounds bounce and echo as a crow calls. The water trickles and I can smell its freshness .... Etc, etc.

The writing of this one is clear and smooth and conveys rich imagery.

Gordon

Peta said...

HI Sue what a fabulous photo. I loved this even though I have no idea where these places are, which guess amny of your readers would not. I wondered if you could have perhaps described some of the rock art drawings for the reader beyond them being about creation - the colours are rich but there is no dimension (probably the wrong word) for them.

Is the crocodile actually male (I mean "he" is guarding the eggs) or is this a typo?

The river sounds wonderful. What a treat to be there and to here reading about it. Thanks Sue.

Scriveners said...

Kerry says:
Knowing this place and having been there with you, gives me an insight into your beautiful descriptions Sue. Brings back memories of the amazing Kakadu Park. I was surprised about the comparison with bluebells in an English wood. Seemed out of context but then I haven't seen the pink ginger in flower. You must be collecting lots of writing for your book by now. Good for you.